Here a video of the first testrun of my Kubota D950
Unfortunately it burns oil on two cylinders, the water pump does not work and the crankshaft bearing is gone after the run. So it will take a few weeks more to get my second diesel bike on the road.
The first set of pictures shows one of the exclusive Ural dry-enddrives in good shape. Those drives are dry to prevent oil from dripping on the street. Even if you fill in Oil to them, it will last for 20000 km until the bolts of the cover getting lose and the oil will leak out. You can drive another 10000 km when that happens.
The next set shows another end drive which has some serious cracks in its cover, so it ist useless until I figured out a way to get that fixed.
After I found some slightly useable parts I failed to mount a new enddrive ratio, the cover is not closing, I will write more about that when I know whats going on with that transmission:
Finally on the investigation of the Kubota engine I want to show you a short video of the Injection pump:
One of my current projects is to build a proper antenna system for HF amateur radio bands on the top of my lorry…
After it is almost finished I must admit that this was more complex than I thought. So I will soon write down my Experiences into 3 threads:
I will also show you what can go wrong, because I constructed almost everything twice.
Last weekend I traveled to the 20. Ratbike Wintertreffen near Ulm. On the campsite I discovered that the final-drive was not transmitting full power to the wheel anymore…
Obviously there are some pieces not in their place. Fortunately they are not important, except if you want to drive.
This weekend I made a huge Inspection on my GS500E when I discovered that the Valve playing on my left exhaust valve was gone. Unfortunately this was the one with the 215er Shim which is the smallest available.
I think the cylinder head is dieing, since the valve is digging deeper and deeper into it. Which is the cause of a lack of
service a few years ago. But why not grind those shims down, drive another 20000 km?
This is how I did it. First I drilled a 2 mm hole with a forstner drill into a piece of wood:
Then I angle grinded one side of the shim down. Being careful not to overheat the shim. When I had the right distance, I finisched it with a sander. I put the grinded and sanded side to the bottom, so the cam can pusch on the original side.
I don’t know how long this will last, but I hope it is better than doing nothing until the engine breaks down.
I must admit, that those Russian drum brakes are not as relieable as i want them to be. Every 2000 km you have to adjust the cable tunings, every 1000 km you have to exchange the cable and also the steal within the aluminium drums is going very thin through the years.
So the cheapest and most propper way to get a better front break on your iron cluster is, to get a hub with a disk and build on the bike. That is what people told me. So I startet a search on several online services and found this for 15 bugs on willhaben.at :
It is a 19″ wheel. I think it is propably from a Honda CB550 or CB750. So the first part of the new diskbrake system is there.
When I am thinking about new constructions I fell over a picture on Flickr:
This is a ruggerini RD210 engine with a centrifugal clutch I can’t see any gearbox on that conversation.
Since the International Diesel Ralley in Hamm came this year again, I finally assembled my Diesel Bike, did 10 km testride and then I rode to the Ralley.
There is a Gallery on Flickr since I forgot my camera on the sofa:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/13755101@N03/sets/72157627482397253/
after the ralley I traveled to my dads home for two weeks.
When I was back in Vienna the Spedo says about 3000 km. The Gas cable broke and a Light bulb. Also there are some small oil leaks on the Gearbox I have to investigate. I also need a new Airfilter to get the noise levels down.
Here is the gallery of my clutch repair work. The clutch take out bearing and the Pilot bearing was broken, so I had to move the gearbox 50 cm to the back, exchange the parts and build everything together again.
When you do that work, it will not be bad if you exchange the clutch and the crankshaft seal as well.
